Featured Articles, Interviews

Brighter Times Ahead





Marcus-WikstromSwedish and vegan haircare brand, Maria Nila, has launched their first bleach collection to round out their salon portfolio. With the “Brighter Times” bleach collection, Maria Nila was inspired to create a complete bleach concept aimed for long lasting results to be used both at salons and at home.

In this new collection, the treatment begins at the salon with a salon-exclusive Maria Nila bleach treatment and ends at home, unlike common in-salon treatments. Clients use Silver Shot, a 2 oz. violet-pigment post-care finishing treatment at-home to nourish their hair and prolong color in-between salon visits.

Hair Authority contacted Neila Dahlande, Maria Nila Education Coordinator, to learn more.

Why is the program called Brighter Times?
We chose to name this campaign “Brighter Times” as a salute to the brighter times we all aspire to; leaving this past year behind us, taking with us only the growth that we have achieved collectively and focusing on the brighter times ahead. Bleach products always get more popular during spring/summer, and we thought this campaign was the perfect way to celebrate our new bleach line right on time for these Brighter Times.


People-behind-brighter-timesWho are the people behind Brighter Times?
When developing products or campaigns, there’s a whole chain of people and departments working together to maximize the outcome. Behind our beautifully designed 100% vegan and animal friendly Bleach Collection, there’s a massive effort from Maria Nila’s own chemists, Maria Nila’s Brand Studio, our Maria Nila’s Marketing Department and, most importantly, to make sure we enhance our professional reputation and education Team.


How come this product was developed in Sweden?
We believe that there’s simply no room for cutting corners when producing high quality products. That’s why we take great pride in having our own factory in the south of Sweden. Here, we can monitor all aspects of the production process – from our chemists formulating innovative recipes, to our filling stations that compile the newly produced products in sustainable packaging


Is it important to the company that its products are certified vegan and cruelty free?
Yes! Due to Maria Nila’s philosophy of providing the world with 100% vegan and friendly products that are developed out of the love for animals and the environment. We believe that animals shouldn’t be a part of human vanity. We are striving to be a leading sustainable professional brand within beauty. We never want to compromise on function.


What makes Brighter Times different from other color enhancing hair care products?
The design created by our own Brand Studio, really stands out on the shelves. With all Maria Nila creations, there’s a reason behind everything. For example, our developers are colored like the sunset from light to dark to make it easy for stylists to find the right volume going from 3-40. The cap for the developers is easy to open and use with one hand to help professionals’ multitasking.


Brighter Times is a gentle bleach, developed to suit all needs – our Balayage Bleach has a clay formula that is perfect for free hand technique, and the Silver Bleach contains real violet pigments and a complementary Silver Shot for clients to use at home to maintain blonde tones. We believe our products will stand out from other developers.


Will Brighter Times work on non-growing hair, for example human hair wigs?
Yes, it works equally well on both growing and non-growing hair. However, we always must take the hair’s history into consideration. Previously colored hair, or heavily treated hair might need more effort to lift than virgin hair. It is important for the stylist to know the hair history and process accordingly.


Hairpieces and wigs are often dyed, or color corrected to match a client’s own hair. Will Brighter Times work on hair that has already been colored?
We always recommend doing a color cleanse before bleaching on previously colored hair.


Hairpieces and wigs quickly oxidize and lose color. Can Brighter Times help restore and match the original color?
The Maria Nila Bleach collection will help you to reach the preferred level of lift on your hair. After that, you can use your color/toner of choice to match the client’s natural color. We recommend continuously using the Silver Shot to keep cuticles closed and prevent oxidation of the hairpiece. If you’re not looking to add extra violet pigments, you can simply leave it on for 1-2 minutes to only get the benefits of closing the cuticles.


The-2-stage-processExplain the two-stage process.
The first step is to perform the bleach session as usual in the salon. The bleach mixing ratio is 1 part bleach + 2 parts hydrogen peroxide. Our Silver Bleach works as a traditional bleach with plenty of added benefits such as the silver tone of the powder, which compared to blue colored powders doesn’t trick the eye by artificially neutralizing the golden tones during the process. This makes it easy for the hairdresser to see exactly when the desired level is reached and is ready to rinse.

Light-broght-BottleThen rinse bleach thoroughly with water and add desired toner if you wish. We recommend always ending each treatment with the Silver Shot – a violet pigmented finishing treatment with a low pH of 3,5 to neutralize golden tones, close the cuticles and prolong salon results. Leave the Silver Shot on for 2-10 minutes and rinse thoroughly with water.

The Silver Shot is also available in 60ml for clients to buy. By using the Silver Shot at home after a treatment, the hair cuticle will continue to stay closed, which will result in a much more healthy, manageable blonde that stays cool for longer.


What happens in the salon?
what-happens-in-saloonFirst, a proper consultation is vital. Make sure you get to know the hair’s history. Is there any possible metal residue in the hair? Was the hair previously colored? If so, do a deep cleanse before any bleaching treatments. Find out about the client’s normal hair care routine. What kind of maintenance is the client willing to keep up?

After that, we decide on a suitable bleach technique. Use the Silver Bleach for traditional foils or full bleach, and the Balayage Bleach for free hand techniques.

Remember: Any bleach starts oxidizing as soon as you have mixed the powder with hydrogen peroxide. Make sure to mix a new bowl every 20-30 minutes to get the most even, clear, and gentle lift possible.

When we get to the finishing stages – it’s important to educate the client about the benefits of the after-care options such as the Silver Shot, to make sure they understand the benefit of using it to prolong the salon results.


What is the mode of action of Brighter Times?
Both bleaches have a pH of 10.3 when the powder and developer is mixed together in a ratio of 1+2. This will open the cuticle and bleach the pigments inside the hair.

The Silver Bleach is a traditional bleaching powder with added violet pigment that neutralizes the underlying pigments during the bleaching process for a cooler result.

BalayageOur Balayage Bleach is formulated with natural ingredients such as kaolin, xanthan gum and guar gum to increase the thickness of the formula, creating a paste that is ideal for free-hand techniques. The kaolin also creates a dry surface on top of your sections, while the formula stays moist and active on the inside, for a natural and smudge free lift.

The Silver Shot is the final treatment that closes the cuticle. Since the pH is lower than the hair´s natural pH, the Silver Shot will help close the hair cuticles again and lower the pH back to its pre-bleaching state. The Silver Shot also acts as an antistatic, moisture-retaining, humectant, and conditioning agent for the hair/scalp thanks to the ingredients Guar Gum and Caprylyl Glycol. Always use the Silver Shot as a finishing treatment to preserve the hairs integrity after a bleach treatment.


What is the science behind Brighter Times?
The active ingredients in bleach are persulphates. They function in the same way as hydrogen peroxide – they bleach the hair, but they are much stronger. Balayage Bleach and Silver Bleach differ in the concentration and types of persulphates they contain. Balayage Bleach is stronger.

The Silver Bleach will also give you a cooler tone thanks to the real violet pigments. The developer’s main ingredient is hydrogen peroxide which develops into synthetic color in hair dye and oxidizes melanin (hair’s natural color) and strips colored molecules of their natural color. Silver Shot closes the cuticle thanks to the low pH, helps to prevent yellow tones as it contains complementary violet pigments and is boosted with emollients and humectants.


Explain the different components of the full regimen and how they work together. Do you need to use all the products, or can you select only a few?
Silver Bleach – Traditional bleach that is generally used with all techniques including foils or other isolation such as highlights in foils, or foilayage. This is also perfect for bleaching roots or a full head.

Balayage Bleach – This is a clay-induced bleach that creates a dry coat on the outside of your sections to prevent staining while staying active and moist on the inside. Perfect for all types of free hand techniques.

Five developers – Levels of hydrogen peroxide in global units that come in volume 6, 10, 20, 30 and 40.

Silver Shot – A finishing treatment to lower the pH of the hair after a bleach treatment. This is a wonderful product to restore hair health and to keep it strong and manageable after a bleach treatment. It closes the cuticle to make the toner last longer and can be used by itself to add violet pigments for neutralizing the natural underlying golden tones that naturally appear when lightening any hair.


Are there any side effects?
Although Maria Nila Bleach Collection will give a gentle lift when used by a professional, all bleach treatments are in fact harsh on the hair and should only be used by trained experts. Remember, always do a proper consultation before you start to make sure you know the hair’s history. By doing so, you can create beautiful and bright results while simultaneously keeping the integrity of the hair.


Where can I buy Brighter Times in the US?
You can find the whole collection in Cosmoprof stores, www.cosmoprofbeauty.com and Armstrong McCall stores in USA and Canada. For further questions, please check our website for tutorials: https://marianila.com/us/education/e-learning or reach out to professional.americas@marianila.com.

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